Have you ever wondered how waves originate? To discover those perfect waves that seem like something out of a dream, it's essential to understand the basics: how waves form, what factors affect them, and how they interact with the coast.
Waves are the perfect result of the interaction between the seabed, wind, and swell. The way swell lines intersect with the seabed structure gives rise to these natural wonders. Every wave is unique, and at Flysurf, we understand this perfectly: we know that every experience in the water is unrepeatable.
Waves exist thanks to the power of the sun. Its heat unevenly warms the Earth's surface, especially in equatorial areas where solar rays hit more directly. This phenomenon generates hot air masses that move towards colder areas, creating wind. This movement is key to the formation of swell, which gives life to waves. That's why there is usually less wind at sunrise and sunset: the temperature between land and sea balances, eliminating air displacement.
Wind plays an essential role in wave formation, disturbing the sea surface. These disturbances transform into swell that travels hundreds or even thousands of kilometers. During this journey, waves become more organized and gain strength. Upon reaching the shore, they manifest in all their splendor: either as a long, perfect wall that advances orderly for meters, or as a mass of water that rises and breaks forcefully, challenging less experienced surfers.
Factors influencing the type and origin of waves
The type, quality, and shape of the wave depend fundamentally on:
– The origin of the swell and the distance it travels to reach the coast are key factors in the formation of ideal waves for surfing.
– The duration of the wind at the swell's point of origin directly influences the quality of waves for surfing.
– The distance traveled by the wind at the swell's origin directly affects the strength and size of the waves.
– The type of seabed (sand, rocks, or coral) and its arrangement (bathymetry) determine the shape and quality of the waves when they break.
– The angle between the swell's direction and the break line influences how waves break, determining if they will be rights, lefts, or close-outs.
– Local wind conditions (onshore, offshore, cross) and currents that can improve or degrade wave quality.
WHY DO SOME WAVES BREAK FOR HUNDREDS OF METERS AND OTHERS SIMPLY CLOSE OUT COMPLETELY UPON CONTACT WITH THE SHORE?
If we consider only the swell direction, the orientation of the break line (bottom), and how they interact with each other, we can categorize waves on a spectrum ranging from short waves to long waves.
To determine the swell direction, simply check the wave forecast and verify the indicated angle and direction. As for the break orientation, you can use a map or analyze an aerial or satellite image through tools like Google Earth (1).
In the image, we observe a north swell (310°) interacting with a bay oriented in the same direction. This angle, almost parallel to the break line of a rocky point, creates a perfect wave capable of traveling hundreds of meters. In contrast, that same swell hits a beach or bay located at the top of the image at an angle close to 90°, resulting in an extremely fast wave, likely closing out completely and being unsuitable for surfing.
The different breaks
Long wave. E.g.: Punta de Lobos (Chile), Mundaka (Spain).
This occurs when the swell direction and the break line (bottom) are practically parallel, forming an angle between 0° and 25°. Under these conditions, the wave usually breaks consistently at the same point, advancing slowly sideways.
In places like Chile, the most outstanding waves typically follow this pattern. They are usually found at the southern end of north-facing bays, where large swells coming from the south generate a phenomenon known as refraction (see image 1). This phenomenon occurs when the swell deviates and wraps around a rocky outcrop, significantly altering its direction. This change causes interactions with the bottom at angles ranging from 0° to 25°, producing waves of excellent quality for surfing.
Medium wave (neither short nor long). E.g.: El Palmar (Spain), Punta Teatinos (Chile)
Most surfable waves in the world fall into this category. In these waves, the swell interacts with the bottom at an angle between 25° and 50°. Surfing these waves is less lateral compared to the previous type, but if the angle is high, you'll need to surf at a higher speed to avoid getting caught by the foam and having the wave close out.
Short and fast wave. E.g.: Reñaca (Chile)
For angles over 50°, riding the wave sideways becomes an achievement, as you have to go very fast to avoid getting caught by the lip. If the angle is greater than 80°, it becomes an impossible mission to get out, as it's very likely to close out on you.
When the angle exceeds 50°, surfing the wave laterally becomes a real challenge, as you need a lot of speed to avoid getting caught by the lip. If the angle is greater than 80°, it practically becomes an impossible mission, as it is very likely that the wave will close out completely, making any attempt to maneuver difficult.
Friends. From today, we will be wave seekers, always trying to find acute angles (between 0 and 50°) between the swell direction and the break line. Can you recognize the spot in the image above? If you know it, mention it in the comments. A hint: it's in Chile!
If you want to learn surfing or start this sport, whatever your level; beginner, intermediate, or advanced, visit our website.
Now, enjoy and share the knowledge!
FLYSURF, #SurfBetterNow.
Bibliography.
(1) Atlantic Surf.
