As Jeff Hackman said, "Surfing is almost a form of flying."
Put away your cell phone,
Stop looking at your calendar.
Your meeting ended half an hour ago.
Now the important part begins,
You. The sea.
Now it's you who chooses
You chose that beach,
It's your playground, your recess, your play area, you. you. you.
where you don't care about everything that doesn't matter.
Trial and error. Trial and error. Trial and error.
It's the only thing that counts.
That, and do it with all your might.
Live hard. Surf hard.
Because you don't know which wave will make you fly
This one? The next one?
You're looking for that feeling, no mindfulness, no yoga, no book, no entrepreneurship guru is going to teach you.
Do you want to learn to fly?
Spoiler:
No one is an expert in this art. There's no exact formula; you'll have to decipher it every time you enter the sea, like a bird leaving the nest for the first time, again and again.
The sea makes us equal. Its immensity gives us perspective. It distances us from the noise. And brings us closer to ourselves.
The size of the wave doesn't matter. Our level doesn't matter. We're all looking for that feeling. We're chasing that dream.
Because once you do it, even for a few seconds, nothing will be the same.
You'll just want to repeat it.
You will migrate from one place to another, only to do it again.
You will live waiting for that wave, that changes everything,
You'll live waiting for that bell to ring that tells you: it's time to play.
At what point did you stop playing?
Come on, play with the waves.
Surf them.
or better yet.
Fly.
FLY.
Why just surf when you can fly?