Many times we hear: "I don't understand why, after 3 years of being a beginner surfer, my surfing hasn't improved." Today we bring you tips to go from beginner to intermediate surfer. If you are still in the early stages of learning, we leave you a detailed guide for your first waves!
From beginner to intermediate surfer: the story of a great lesson
It was a day in August several years ago in Punta de Lobos (Chile). A day of small to medium waves with sets of up to 1.5m that came in orderly and clean. It was my first time entering the line-up and I admit that my surfing level at that time was quite more limited than the average of those who were around that day.
I remember spotting a man in the distance who dominated the place. Every time he paddled, the wave rose just behind him, carrying him gently and ending in a long, smooth ride several hundred meters further.
After watching him do the same for an hour, I realized that he was not alone but accompanied by two others who, like me, were beginners in this art of surfing waves.
As I struggled to catch waves among the crowd, I once again hit the mental wall and got frustrated.
The few waves I caught would only break for a few meters, losing strength halfway through and leaving me with the feeling of not having transformed all the wave's energy into movement.
In short, a surfer who was more mediocre in performance but probably a world champion in effort and perseverance (yet still not progressing).
Tips for surfers
At that moment, between waves, listening to the advice of this "old wolf" to his "pupils," I heard a piece of advice that marked my surfing life from that moment on. He constantly talked about "up and down the wave," he talked about "bending and extending (or stretching) the knees."
It struck me that the conversation no longer spoke of left or right waves, but rather a new dimension was added, and they began to speak vertically, referring to the crest and the base of a wave.
After a while of putting this character's words into practice, I gradually realized that they indeed made sense.
My surfing changed from the moment I started to "read" the wave and ride it from top to bottom instead of just thinking of it as a straight line that should be ridden to the left or right. It was an eye-opener and a mind-opener: I was in the presence of a completely different game.
"To start doing your first maneuvers, you need SPEED, just like riding a bicycle, the slower you go, the harder it is to maintain balance."
To move across the wave with speed and force you must go up and down. That is, from the crest to the base of the wave and vice versa. When going down the wave, the knees bend like a spring accumulating energy, so that at the base of the wave your body is totally compact. When going up to the crest of the wave, the knees stretch, "pushing the board down and propelling your body up". You will feel an energy and a momentum like never before, for the first time you transform the energy of the wave into vertical movement which, I admit, is difficult to control at first.
"Your legs are constantly moving up and down." This will give you the speed, explosiveness, and fluidity you need as an intermediate surfer to start attempting your first maneuvers and forge your style.
The transition from beginner to intermediate surfer is determined by the amount of energy and how efficiently you can transfer it from the wave to your board. That is, how you move from the base to the crest of the wave and vice versa, and how you begin to use that energy with fluidity and harmony on the wave face.
It was a day of enlightenment; I felt a conscious change in my surfing like never before, and that somehow those words I overheard could change my surfing history.
The most incredible thing of all, and what reaffirms to me that this universe is more mysterious than we believe, is that the same old, wise wolf who, more than 10 years ago, unknowingly became my teacher, is now a dear friend and colleague at Flysurf, helping us with the development of products designed for what he does best: Surf Better!
Conclusions
- Read the wave not just as a left or a right, but from top to bottom.
- When you go down the face of the wave, your knees bend.
- Upon reaching the base of the wave, your body is fully compact, knees bent, and body leaning forward.
- Your knees extend rapidly, pushing the board down and propelling your body up.
- When you reach the crest of the wave, if you've done it correctly, you'll arrive with speed, ready to connect your first maneuver.
- You can go up and down the wave as many times as needed.
- In small waves, going up and down is only a matter of inches. You need to be very quick to compress and then extend your knees.
- Your knees remain in motion (bending/stretching) throughout the entire ride of the wave.
Practice this movement over and over (in and out of the water) until it becomes automatic. This way you will have made a big step from beginner to intermediate surfer. See you in the water! And remember, all the surf gear you need can be found at Flysurfbrand.
By Wolf.
