Summer has been intense: sun, sand, hundreds of sessions, and probably a few dings. Before September and the first autumn swells arrive, your board deserves ten minutes of review. You don't need to be a repair expert, just know what to look for and what to leave as is.
Before we go into detail, take this quick test and see if you would make the right decisions for the most common end-of-summer problems.
What to check before the high season ends
- Fins. Check that the screws are still firm (without overtightening) and that there is no gap between the fin base and the board. A summer of intense use may have loosened the assembly a bit.
- Grip. Check if it has lost grip in any area, especially in the tail, where it receives more friction and pressure from the leash. If it has peeled off at the edge, now is the time to repair it before it gets worse.
- Leash. Check the entire cord, the ankle velcro, and the plug or cord where it screws into the board. This is the part most often forgotten to check and the one that causes the most problems if it fails in the water.
- Deck and base. Look for swollen areas on the deck and cracks on the base. Not all damage is treated equally, as you will see below.
- Wax. If you're coming from a summer of warm waters and September brings milder autumn waters to your area, it's a good time to renew it with a formula appropriate for the new temperature.
Bubbles or swelling on the deck of your foam board: what they are and when they can be repaired
If you notice that an area of the deck (the part where you place your feet) sinks when you press it or makes a small cracking sound, it's not just an aesthetic problem: it's a separation between the top layer (the EVA or IXPE foam you stand on) and the fiberglass layer that reinforces it underneath. Air has been trapped between both layers and they are no longer properly glued.
The good news is that, if the area is small (the size of your palm or less), it can be repaired at home:
- Make a small cut with a utility knife in the swollen area, just enough to release the trapped air.
- Fill with an elastic adhesive (not a rigid epoxy-type resin, which would crack with the board's flex). Our MS polymer sealant works well for this type of repair.
- Protect the surrounding area with masking tape so the sealant doesn't stain the foam.
- Press the area with some weight until it cures, so that the two layers are properly rejoined.
When NOT to try it yourself and take it to a professional:
- The swollen area is larger than the palm of your hand.
- The damage may affect the stringer (the central reinforcement of the board).
- It's on the nose or tail, areas where the shape is critical.
- You notice or hear water inside the board when you move it.
Dings or cracks in your fiberglass or soft top board: how to seal them before water gets in
The base of the board is a hard layer that receives all the friction from water and sand. If a crack or a small hole appears there due to hitting a rock, a fin cut, or whatever, the real risk is not aesthetic: it's that water will seep into the foam core, which adds weight, reduces buoyancy and, over time, can cause mold inside the board. That's why it's advisable to seal cracks in the base as soon as you see them, and not leave them for "later."
The basic process:
- Make sure the area is completely dry before applying anything. If the hole has just occurred, try to leave it for a few days to let out any water inside. Resin does not adhere well to a wet surface.
- Once it is dry and you see that there is no water left, you can fix it!
- Protect the area around the crack with masking tape.
- Fill with a UV curing resin (like Solarez or other specific solar resin for boards), applying it in thin layers instead of one thick layer at once. Applying too much at once can cure unevenly.
- Once applied, let it dry in direct sunlight. (These materials seal with UV rays).
- If you see that it has become rough or has excess product, sand it to leave the surface smooth.
If the crack is longer than 10 cm, goes all the way through, affects the stringer, or you notice water inside the board, it's better to take it to a professional instead of trying to repair it yourself.
If your board is fiberglass: the difference you can't overlook
If, in addition to softboards, you have a fiberglass board, there's one rule that doesn't allow exceptions: not all resins work for all boards.
- Polyester (PU) boards, with a polyurethane foam core: these are repaired with polyester resin.
- Epoxy (EPS) boards, with a polystyrene foam core: these must be repaired with epoxy resin.
Never use polyester resin on an epoxy board: the chemical reaction melts the foam and the small "ding" becomes a much larger hole. Epoxy resin, however, is safe for both types of boards if you are unsure which one you have.
For a small ding, if you want to stay in the water that same day, a UV curing resin is the quickest solution: dry surface, light sanding, apply the resin in the shade, expose the board to the sun for a few minutes until it hardens, and sand off the excess. It's a temporary but effective repair until you can make a more complete fix.
Renewing wax for temperature change
If your board has had warm water wax all season and in September the water in your area starts to cool down, it's a good time to remove the old residue and apply a new layer according to the new temperature, such as our wax for temperate waters. Worn wax (hard, cracked, or with embedded sand) loses grip precisely when you need it most, with the sea a bit choppier.
How to store it well if you're not going to use it for several weeks
- Never leave it in high temperatures. Not in the car in the sun, not covered with towels, nor in a closed bag exposed directly to the sun. Excessive heat is one of the most common causes of bubbles and warping.
- Store it clean and dry. Rinse off all salt residue before storing, especially if it's going to be unused for a while.
- Use a board bag in a cool, shaded place. A board bag protects against bumps and scratches during transport and storage, as long as it's not in the sun.
- If you move it frequently by car, a car rack prevents unnecessary friction and bumps during the journey, one of the times when boards are most damaged without us realizing it.
Frequently asked questions about board maintenance after summer
Can deck bubbles on a board be repaired?
Yes, if the affected area is small (the size of your palm or less). A small cut is made to release the trapped air, and it's sealed with an elastic adhesive. If the area is larger, affects the stringer, or is on the nose or tail, it's best to take it to a professional.
How often should I check my board's grip?
At least at the end of each high-use season, like summer. This is the area that receives the most friction, especially on the tail, due to pressure from the leash and feet.
Can I use any resin to repair my board?
No. If your board is epoxy (EPS core), using polyester resin will melt the foam and enlarge the damage. If you're unsure about your board's material, epoxy resin is safe for both types.
Should I change the wax at the end of summer?
If the water temperature in your area changes from warm to temperate in September, it's advisable to renew it with a formula appropriate for the new temperature to maintain grip.
Is your board ready for September? Check out our selection of grips, sealants, and wax, and start the new season with your board in top condition.
