Summer bids farewell with empty beaches and something in the air changes: the water begins to move differently. The first autumn storms bring groundswell, with longer periods and more power, very different from the localized, choppy waves of July and August. If you've never surfed outside of peak season, this change can catch you off guard, both in and out of the water.
Here's what to expect from the ocean in autumn and how to prepare your body and equipment before the first serious swells arrive.
What changes in the sea when autumn arrives
- Groundswell arrives, not just local wind swell. In summer, much of the swell depends on the day's thermal. In autumn, swells generated by distant storms begin to arrive, with longer periods between waves and more real energy behind each set.
- The waves have more strength and power. A five-foot groundswell doesn't feel the same as a five-foot local swell. It breaks with more impact and demands more from your paddling and positioning.
- The weather is more variable. Conditions can change much more from one day to the next than in mid-summer, so it's a good idea to check the forecast more frequently instead of assuming the spot will be the same as last week.
- The beach remains empty, but the average skill level rises. With fewer people but more serious waves, the surfers who remain in the water in autumn tend to be more experienced. It's a good time to test yourself against a slightly higher skill level if you feel ready.
How to prepare your body for the change
More powerful waves demand more paddling, more strength in the pop-up, and more general stamina than the calm summer sessions. If you haven't trained out of the water for months, the first autumn sessions will feel much more demanding than expected.
If you want to be physically prepared, our Fly Surf Academy offers personalized training designed by coaches with Olympic experience, specifically tailored to gain the strength and stamina that more demanding waves require.
How to prepare your equipment
- Check which wetsuit you need. The water gradually starts to cool down in autumn. If you're still surfing in a rash guard, take a look at our guide to wetsuit thicknesses based on water temperature to know when to make the switch.
- Carefully check the forecast before each session. With more variable weather, the wave forecast becomes more important than ever for choosing the best day and time.
- Protect your feet. With colder water and many autumn spots having rocky bottoms, booties make the difference between lasting the entire session or getting out after 20 minutes.
- Check your board before the first groundswell session. Stronger waves test fins, leashes, and grip differently than gentle summer waves. Review our end-of-summer maintenance guide if you haven't already.
Which board is right for you when the swell starts to pick up
If your skill level already allows you to take advantage of more powerful and faster waves, autumn is a good time to consider switching from an evolutive softboard to a fiberglass board, which is more reactive in larger waves. Our Dharma 6.2 is designed precisely for that transition, for intermediate surfers looking for more maneuverability in more powerful waves.
If you are still progressing, there's no rush: an evolutive softboard remains the safest and most versatile option as you get used to autumn waves, and it gives you more margin for error in an ocean that is starting to demand a bit more.
Frequently asked questions about the first autumn waves
Why are autumn waves different from summer waves?
Because they no longer depend solely on local thermal winds and start to arrive generated by groundswells, with longer periods between waves and more real energy, which translates into more powerful breaking waves.
Do I need to be in better physical shape to surf in autumn?
It helps a lot. More powerful waves require more paddling and more strength in the pop-up than calm summer sessions, so working on your physical fitness makes the transition much easier.
When should I start wearing a wetsuit in autumn?
It depends on the actual water temperature in your area rather than the calendar. As a reference, below 22°C (72°F) you usually start to feel the need for a light wetsuit.
Is it a good time to switch from a softboard to a fiberglass board?
If your skill level already allows you to take advantage of more powerful and faster waves, yes. If you are still progressing, an evolutive softboard remains the safest option as you get used to autumn waves.
Ready for the first autumn waves? Check the forecast, adjust your gear, and discover the option that best suits your level for this new season in our surfboard collection.
